Natural African Hair Best Practices
For African hair, here are best practices for growth, maintenance and natural beauty: washing, conditioning, moisturizing and low manipulation.
Shampoo your hair; co-wash occasionally. Use shampoo with little or no sulfates, and only use conditioner as a cleanser occasionally (one a month or after a henna treatment).
Conditioners. Alternate between two different conditioners: one that intensely hydrates/moisturizes and one that is a reconstructing protein conditioner. To get both beneficial treatments: add a protein conditioner to dry hair for 20 minutes, rinse and shampoo it out, and follow with a moisturizing conditioner.
Use this moisturizing treatment recommended by Curly Nikki after every shampoo or cleansing:
- After washing, gently squeeze excess water from hair
- Add a few drops of argan oil to sectioned hair.
- Leave-in, without rinsing for 10 minutes
- Apply your moisturizing conditioner over the argan oil and leave on for recommended time
- Rinse thoroughly using the sealing method (see below)
While argan oil is great for taming mild frizz, fly-aways and adding shine on straight hair, it has a different effect on African hair. It is excellent for retaining moisture (water) on African hair when applied to very damp or wet hair. Unlike most other oils, argan is meant to be used on wet hair, and provides moisture without an oily feel. It's also a great basis for setting styles using braids or large twists on "wash day" resulting in great shine and smoother hair.
Rinsing. Use warm (not hot) water when shampooing, and lukewarm or very cool water when rinsing to seal the conditioner.
Moisturizing and sealing (for dry hair) - Use a leave-in hydrating mist on your hair when it’s damp, and then seal the hair lightly with an oil such as coconut or jojoba oil. Sealing the hair, especially the ends, is a key step to preventing dryness and split ends and should be done daily after misting.
Section your hair. Always detangle and apply shampoos, conditioners and treatments to your hair in sections. This ensures even application and discourages tangling.
Keep hair manipulation to a minimum, especially when detangling. Be gentle and never use a comb on wet hair. Hair is delicate when it’s wet and you’ll just add to the hair loss. Instead, try finger detangling before using a wide-tooth comb. Start at the ends and work your way up towards the scalp.
Low manipulation. After styling your hair, manipulate it as little as possible.
Sleep with a satin cap or satin pillow cases. You may be surprised just how much this one practice will reduce shedding and breakage.
Trim your hair of split ends as soon as practical.
Air dry your hair and avoid heat. If you're compelled to use heat (as I am sometimes), use a great heat protectant, such as Aveda Brilliant Damage Control.
Use henna or other conditioning and strengthening herbs once a month. Deep condition your hair about every month.
Shop organic and eliminate silicones and sulfates. Everything you add to your hair can be absorbed through your scalp and enter your body.
I founded Natural HaiRevolution is help you achieve your best hair - just as I did. I accomplish this mission by wading through the information (and mis-information) about natural hair care, and providing you with fully vetted, natural hair techniques and herbs.